Skyline, Graeter's, LaRosa's: Will Cincinnati's iconic restaurants outlast coronavirus?

In an upended world, we need some normalcy, some routines we can count on. In Cincinnati, that means getting our weekly LaRosa's, our coneys, our black raspberry chocolate chip. A pandemic doesn't stop those kinds of cravings. And when this is all over, we're going to need Skyline, Graeter's and Montgomery Inn to still be here in order to get back to normal. The people behind those institutions are working very hard right now to survive. Each one has something particular in its business model that gives them a fighting chance. And, of course, they're all leaning on the loyalty of their city of customers.  

Skyline

"What's impressing all of us is that, no matter what we thought was coming, it wasn't even close. You get used to one new reality, and then, next week it's a different new reality," said Kevin McDonnell, president of Skyline Chili. "We're dealing the best we can, in the context of worrying about our families, people in the organization and our community as a whole." Their top line, he said, was down 40% the first week of the restaurant shut-down, reflecting the loss of dining room traffic. But it went down again the second week, after the order to shelter in place. 

The drive-thru has become important to Skyline's business over the last 10 years. "Our customers really appreciate the convenience," said McDonnel. Now it's key to surviving. Almost all of their traffic is coming via the drive-thru. Almost every location has one, except the Downtown locations, which McDonnell said, they're looking at carefully. Skyline has 33 corporate stores and 102 that are franchise-owned. "We're working with franchisees on certain payments, we're cutting our marketing spend. It's a radical re-think," said McDonnell.

[ All of The Enquirer's coverage of the new coronavirus is being provided for free to our readers. Please consider supporting local journalism by subscribing to The Enquirer at cincinnati.com/subscribe. ]

Need a break? Play the USA TODAY Daily Crossword Puzzle.

Skyline has kept managers on staff, along with essential employees like steam table workers and everyone at the commissary. The dining room staff have been mostly furloughed, though Skyline continues to pay their health insurance, if they had it.

"This is bigger than any one of us," said McDonnell. "But we're approaching the situation with the thought that we will eventually be able to get back to our normal and wonderful lives." 

Find Skyline's locations and menu at skylinechili.com/menu. They do not take online orders. 

Graeter's

Graeter's has two things going on at once: Business at the scoop shops is, obviously, down. Retail sales have been cut in half. But grocery store sales are up. They're doing carryout and pickup at the stores, and they have a new app for online ordering and paying. "Our ability to have this app ready now was mostly a stroke of dumb luck," said Rich Graeter, president and CEO of Graeter's. You can do touchless ordering and curbside takeout. You can stay in your car and have a banana split brought to you. Delivery is also available, and some drive-thrus.

The panic buying at the beginning of this situation emptied out their freezer pints. "Our team has been making near-heroic efforts to keep local shelves fully stocked," said Graeter. "Most of the national brands have empty doors, but because Graeter's is made right here, and we personally work to stock the shelves, we can keep them stocked." So far, Graeter's hasn't had to lay anyone off, though they may soon have to face that reality. "While ice cream is not essential, it's one of those familiar foods that can help provide some comfort in these trying times," said Graeter. "And I think being able to provide that small comfort for families, especially for our kids, is essential." 

LaRosa's

LaRosa's Pizza is uniquely ready for this situation because they are champs at doing delivery and carryout. "We've been doing delivery since 1985," said Mike LaRosa, and with the one number and technology we've been using since 1990, we know how to do this." Pre-corona, their business across the board was about 25% pick-up, 25% dine-in and 50% delivery. They operate their own delivery system, making it more profitable than working with third-party vendors. But, he said, "Dining rooms are still a significant part of our revenue, and it's a lot to replace. We aren't there yet."

When the state closed restaurants for dining in, LaRosa's did not have to lay off large numbers of their 4,000 employees. "We invited any dining room team members to come into work," said LaRosa. "We also let them opt to stay home and take unemployment if they didn't feel comfortable."  

They have reduced their operating hours in order to thoroughly disinfect locations overnight. They encourage paying ahead and are not requiring signatures for in-person pickup. Deliveries can be placed on a porch or outside landing to minimize contact. 

Check larosas.com for delivery and pickup and more tips on the current situation. 

[ Get breaking news about novel coronavirus in Greater Cincinnati and NKY by downloading the Cincinnati.com app ]

Frisch's

Frisch's, too, is set up well for a world of no dine-in. Before coronavirus hit, they did 45% of their business as drive-thru, pickup or delivery. So they've been able to get by without laying off employees, though they gave all their workers the option of staying home. They also did something very clever: set up Big Boy Market, selling some basic groceries along with their menu. You can get toilet paper, milk, etc., at the drive-thru or however you get your Big Boy. Frisch's also partners with third-party delivery services. CEO Jason Vaughn hopes they'll at least break even through the situation. "We're here to provide affordable meals to everyone," he said. 

Find ordering information at www.frischs.com.

Gold Star

Gold Star Chili invented the chili drive-thru, as CEO Roger David points out in a letter to customers on the Gold Star website. They are now relying on it for 90% of their business, which is down overall. "Some of our employees chose not to stay because they didn't feel comfortable or they have kids at home, or lots of reasons. Others embrace it and are eager to get the hours," he said. "But we haven't laid anyone off.

"Practicing social distancing in a restaurant is challenging," said David. "But we're trying to keep everyone as safe as possible." 

David said they're now trying to figure out the federal and state programs that are going to help, how it applies to them. He sees some light in the situation, he said. "I think it's a true testament to us as Americans that there's so much support out there. I feel like there's been a lot of virtual bonding amid the social distancing."  

You can order delivery or pickup on goldstarchili.com.

Montgomery Inn

 "We'll be fine," said Evan Andrews, executive vice president of Montgomery Inn. "We're blessed that we have a good carryout program," he said. "We understand it, we could pivot quickly to using it." He said they're also lucky to have diversified, with a grocery retail program, and Cincy Favorites, the mail-order company that delivers Cincinnati-favorite foods. "That has doubled," said Andrew. "You should see the orders. Somebody ordered 24 schnecken the other day, then added eight slabs of ribs and six rolls of goetta."  

Their sales at Montgomery Inn and The Boathouse are down overall. The real reason Andrew is optimistic is that he thinks the relief bill hammered out by the Senate is going to be very helpful to restaurants. "I'm really thankful for it, I think we'll come back stronger than ever." 

Order takeout, curbside pickup and mail order at www.montgomeryinn.com.

More from Polly on restaurants during the pandemic

More:Jean-Robert's Restaurant L will not reopen

More:Busken Bakery is making toilet paper cakes

More:Let's put this into perspective. This is an apocalypse for local restaurants

More:With no dine-in, Cincinnati restaurants get creative with takeout